Discover the Black Sea Highlands in Two Weeks

In the northeastern corner of Türkiye, the landscape takes on a new and intriguing form. The coastline gracefully arcs, the air becomes laden with mist, and the vibrant greens transform into an almost dreamlike spectacle. Discover the enchanting Black Sea region—Karadeniz. However, your journey extends beyond the shoreline. You're ascending further, delving deeper. In the highlands, the yaylas, where pastoral life clings to the mountaintops, and fog swirls like mysterious stories.

For centuries, these highlands have been the go-to summer pastures for local communities seeking refuge from the sweltering lowland heat. Today, they provide a unique sanctuary: away from concrete, away from screens, away from the rush. Embark on a captivating journey over two weeks, where you can follow a scenic path from Rize to Artvin. Experience the thrill of riding along majestic mountain ridges, taking breaks in quaint, overlooked villages, and waking up to breathtaking views above the clouds. To discover more, go to the Plateaus of the Black Sea.

14 Points

400 km

13 h

Route points

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Day 1-2 The Gateway: Rize and the Pull of the Hills

It all begins in Rize, a city surrounded by lush tea plantations and cooled by the gentle maritime breeze. The slopes are adorned with terraces, where each row of tea bushes forms a verse in a verdant poem. Yet, the true enchantment awaits just beyond the horizon—above. Ayder Highland marks the initial gateway. A well-loved spot, indeed, yet also a soft entry point. Alpine wooden houses gracefully adorn the roads, their balconies overflowing with vibrant geraniums. Refreshing waterfalls cascade down from the majestic Kaçkar Mountains. Local honey is presented in jars that shimmer like the sun ascending through the morning fog. As you immerse yourself in the Ayder hot springs at dusk, the stresses of modern life will dissipate like steam in the air.

Day 3-4 Life Above the Clouds: Pokut, Sal, and the Silence

The pathways become more confined. Dirt paths wind their way up to Pokut Yaylası, a highland that emerges unexpectedly after a long, exhilarating ascent—like a secret shared by the forest. At this height, the clouds drift in not above you, but below. It’s a straightforward statement. It’s genuine. In Pokut and its serene neighbour Sal, existence is distilled to the essentials: wood, wool, fire, and tea. Here, the mobile signal fades into insignificance as you witness the mesmerising dance of fog rolling over the pine peaks like ocean waves. The atmosphere is sparse, and so is the passage of time. Residents take their time, share a few words, and always catch the sunset. You start to follow suit.

Day 5-6 The Deeper Valleys: Elevit and the Spirit of the Hemşin

Venture beyond the typical postcard-perfect locations and delve into the heart of Çamlıhemşin, where you'll discover Elevit, Trovit, and Amlakit—hidden gems that often go unnoticed in standard guidebooks. Here, the essence of the highlands resonates with vibrant intensity. Women wear vibrant headscarves, embodying the rich legacy of matrilineal culture in their stance. Men guide cows up muddy slopes, their voices weaving together in harmonious songs that resonate through the valleys. The cuisine is hearty and profoundly gratifying: cornbread roasted over open flames, collard greens sautéed with garlic, and goat cheese delicately encased in cloth. Each dish narrates a tale. In those serene moments—sipping tea by a gentle stream, strolling through meadows adorned with wildflowers—you come to realise: the yayla transcends location; it embodies a rhythm of life.

Day 7-8 Badara, Gito and the Sound of Fog

As the days unfold, the paths become more challenging while the stars shine ever more brilliantly. The Badara and Gito highlands emerge as verdant oases tucked between towering cliffs. As twilight descends, a dense and chilling fog envelops the landscape. As night falls, the stars shine brightly in a sky untainted by the glow of city lights. Imagine engaging in conversation with a shepherd, or enjoying a moment of quietude alongside fellow travellers as the fire softly crackles. The urgency of words begins to fade. Your phone is no longer within reach. Gito truly embodies the essence of a floating island high above the clouds. This is a destination that beckons solitude and offers its rich rewards.

Day 11-12 Artvin and the Borderlands of Wilderness

Your final days guide you towards the east, into Artvin—a province that remains largely unexplored, wild and untamed. The contours are more pronounced, the dips more profound. In Macahel, Türkiye’s sole official biosphere reserve, you stroll through forests that evoke a sense of ancient wonder. The scent of pine, rich soil, and warm beeswax fills the air. All around, there’s a vibrant energy pulsating through every moment. In this space, Georgian architecture seamlessly intertwines with the elegance of Ottoman timberwork. Bees are housed not in traditional hives, but within the natural embrace of tree trunks. The feeling of proximity to something ancient and pristine is unmistakable. Next, we arrive at Borçka Karagöl, the concluding scene. A serene crater lake is embraced by towering pine trees, utterly tranquil. It’s the definitive pause that concludes your lengthy, verdant statement.

Day 13-14 What the Highlands Leave Behind

This journey transcends mere sightseeing or ticking off items on a list. The Black Sea highlands stand firm against consumption. You don’t consume it. You're attentive. You adjust seamlessly. If fortune smiles upon you, you start to embrace their rhythm—a cadence that welcomes silence, encourages slowness, and inspires awe. In a fast-paced world, the yaylas stand as a serene testament to a slower, more deliberate way of life. That may be their most remarkable offering.

Day 9-10 Castles, Rivers, and Stone Bridges: Fırtına Valley’s Hidden Legacy

After days of climbing, you make your way down into Fırtına Valley—a passage steeped in legend and flowing with water. The Zilkale Fortress looms majestically over the river, a steadfast stone sentinel, its battlements shaped by countless years of rain. The Fırtına River thunders beneath, relentlessly shaping the gorge as it has done for ages. Close by, Şenyuva reveals itself as a storybook village—its historic bridge, charming wooden homes, and the mist that rolls in perfectly, as if scripted. As you savour the fresh trout by the river, the thought of staying lingers in your mind. Yet, the journey beckons.